How to choose a coat starts with the fibre on the composition label, then the cloth, the fit over your layers and the care it asks for. Wool gives structure, cashmere gives softness and camel hair gives insulation in a light cloth. This guide compares the three so you can read a designer coat label at a glance.
How do wool, cashmere and camel hair differ in a coat?
Each fibre comes from a different animal and behaves differently in cloth. Wool, from sheep, is the broadest category and the most structured. Cashmere, the fine undercoat of the cashmere goat, is defined by its fineness. Camel hair, from the Bactrian camel, is valued for insulation and used mainly for overcoat cloth.
- Wool: for fabrics made from pure new wool, the Super S number states fineness. Super 100s allows a mean fibre diameter of up to 18.75 microns, Super 150s up to 16.25. A higher number means a finer fibre.
- Cashmere: the Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute defines it as the dehaired undercoat of the cashmere goat, with a mean diameter of no more than 19 microns and no more than 3 percent of fibres by weight above 30 microns.
- Camel hair: the shorter, insulating undercoat is combed away from the coarse outer hair, and the finished fibre is usually reddish tan. Britannica notes that it reacts to chemicals more strongly than wool does, which is worth remembering when you clean it.
What does the composition label tell you?
Read the percentages, not the product name. Blends are common in designer coats. Our men’s edit includes the Burberry wool cashmere pea coat, named for both fibres, so check its fibre split on the product page.
Camel is a colour as well as a fibre. Max Mara’s 101801, designed by Anne-Marie Beretta in 1981, is a camel coat in wool and cashmere, so the name describes the shade. A coat sold as camel may be wool, cashmere, camel hair or a blend of them.
The Super S grade records fibre diameter and nothing else. It says nothing about weave density, finishing or lining, so two coats with the same number can feel and wear differently. The cashmere definition works the same way: it sets a ceiling of 19 microns. Within that ceiling, fineness varies from coat to coat, and the label does not state it.
Which fibre suits which coat?
Wool suits the tailored overcoat and the everyday coat. A dense cloth holds a shoulder line and a clean hem.
Cashmere suits a softer silhouette, such as the wrap coat or the cape. A wool and cashmere blend keeps some of wool’s structure and adds a softer hand.
Camel hair suits cold, dry days and the classic overcoat. Britannica describes camel-hair cloth as warm and comfortable, with excellent insulating properties.
None of the three is a raincoat. For light rain, look at trench coats in cotton gabardine or waxed cotton jackets. For freezing, wet days, look at down-filled styles. Both sit in the women’s outerwear and men’s outerwear edits.
Explore women’s outerwear
Coats and jackets from established houses, filtered by brand, size and season.
Explore men’s outerwear
Overcoats and trench coats, with the composition on every product page.
How to choose a coat for the way you dress
Four criteria narrow the choice quickly.
- Fibre and its share. Find the percentages on the product page. A higher share of cashmere usually drapes more softly, and a higher share of wool usually holds its shape.
- Weight and cloth. Pick up the sleeve. A dense, even cloth suggests a coat that will keep its line. Lighter cloths suit mild autumn days, heavier ones suit winter.
- Fit over your layers. Choose the coat for the heaviest layer you wear under it. For tailoring, check shoulder and length details on the product page. Sizes follow each brand’s own system (international, Italian, French or UK), so confirm the size details before you order.
- The care you will keep up. A coat you can brush and air at home asks less of the cleaner. Read the care label before you buy.
Size guide
Check shoulder and length before you choose.
How do you care for a wool, cashmere or camel hair coat?
Brush, air, rest and hang. Woolmark advises brushing woven wool lengthwise with a soft garment brush after wearing, hanging it on a shaped or padded hanger and resting it for 24 hours before the next wear. If it gets wet, dry it at room temperature, away from direct sun and heat.
Before storing a coat for the summer, have it cleaned, since food stains and body oils attract moths. Pack it in an airtight bag or container, and keep any moth repellent off the cloth itself. Follow the care label for cleaning, with extra attention for camel hair.
Designer coats to explore at Fashion Roots
Two houses show the range well.
Max Mara was founded in 1951 by Achille Maramotti in Reggio Emilia, where it is still based. It is best known for its coats, including the 101801 and the Teddy Bear coat, first shown in 2013.
Burberry is a British house founded by Thomas Burberry in 1856. He invented gabardine in 1879, and the trench coat remains its best-known piece.
As of today, the women’s outerwear edit holds 350+ products and the men’s outerwear edit holds 290+. Filter by brand, size, colour or season to find your fit.
Knowing how to choose a coat means reading the label first, then the cloth, the fit and the care. A coat chosen this way earns its place in the wardrobe for many winters.
Key takeaways: how to choose a coat
- Read the fibre percentages, not the product name or the colour.
- Cashmere is defined by fineness (19 microns or less). Super S numbers grade wool fineness only.
- Camel hair insulates well and suits cold, dry days. Follow its care label closely.
- Choose the coat for your heaviest layer, then brush, air, rest and hang it.
Frequently asked questions
What does a coat’s composition label tell me?
It lists which fibres the cloth contains and in what share. That matters because a coat sold as camel can be wool, cashmere, camel hair or a blend. Check the percentages on the product page before you decide, and read the care label for how the coat should be cleaned.
How is cashmere different from wool in a coat?
Wool comes from sheep and varies widely in fineness. Cashmere is the dehaired undercoat of the cashmere goat, with a mean diameter of no more than 19 microns. In a coat, cashmere gives a softer hand and drape, while wool, depending on the cloth, gives more structure.
Can I wear the same wool coat every day?
You can, with a little routine. Woolmark advises resting wool garments for 24 hours between wears so the fibre can recover its shape. Brush the coat after wearing, hang it on a shaped or padded hanger and air it. If you wear one coat daily, a second coat gives it time to rest.
How should I store a coat over the summer?
Have it cleaned first, because food stains and body oils attract moths. Hang it on a shaped or padded hanger, or pack it in an airtight bag or container. Keep any moth repellent off the cloth itself. Check the care label before choosing a cleaning method.